The Rise of Malört, an Unexpected Midwest princess

Paywalls and Access

• Multiple commenters note the NYT paywall and share archive links, some of which are also partially paywalled or flaky.
• There is mild criticism of NYT’s stance toward Web Archive–style access.

What Malört Is and Name/Title References

• Commenters clarify Malört is a Chicago bäsk (wormwood-based bitter) originally tied to Swedish traditions.
• “Malört” means “wormwood” in Swedish; historically also used as an herb against cloth moths.
• The “Midwest princess” headline is seen as an allusion to a popular album title; the connection is mainly that Malört is Midwestern and newly popular.

Taste, Quality, and Comparisons

• Many describe it as extremely bitter, harsh, and chemically “wrong” (earwax, turpentine, battery rust, swamp grass, “something you shouldn’t drink”).
• Others say it’s just a mediocre herbal bitter, not uniquely awful, comparable to low-end amaro/bäsk.
• Favorable comparisons: some liken it to a very bitter cousin of Jägermeister or other amaros; a minority genuinely enjoy it and sip it.
• Unfavorable comparisons: people who like Fernet, aquavit, and other amaros often still find Malört qualitatively worse.
• Several mention alternative, higher-quality bäsk/bitters (e.g., Bësk, Underberg, Gammel Dansk, Becherovka) as better expressions of the style.

Marketing, Meme Status, and Culture

• Strong consensus that its “worst drink ever” reputation is actively embraced in its marketing (“Do not enjoy. Responsibly.” etc.).
• Seen as a long-running Chicago in-joke: a prank on tourists/new arrivals, part of “Chicago Handshake” (Malört + Old Style).
• Debate whether it’s truly “the unofficial liquor of Chicago” or just a hipster/meme phenomenon; some argue that a century of pranks makes it a real cultural touchstone.
• Its rise is linked by some to broader US interest in amaros and bitter flavors, and to effective, self-deprecating branding.

Changes, Variants, and Distribution

• Several note that after acquisition by a new distiller, Malört became less bitter and more consistent; some lament the change.
• Others report batch-to-batch variation historically, with some bottles “especially bad.”
• Commenters observe wider US distribution and copycat/“good Malört” variants from small distilleries.
• Some feel new flavored or barrel-aged versions undermine its core identity as an intentionally unpleasant shot.

Personal Reactions and Bitter as Acquired Taste

• Thread shows a spectrum: from “liquid punishment” and gag fuel to earnest enjoyment as a bitter digestif.
• Multiple stories of office hazing, bachelor parties, bar games, and elaborate pranks built around surprising people with Malört.
• Several note that bitterness (coffee, amaros, dark chocolate) is often an acquired taste; some suggest Malört can “grow on you,” others insist it never does.