The Rise of Malört, an Unexpected Midwest princess
Chicago’s infamous bitter spirit Malört is portrayed as both a genuine regional amaro and a long-running prank or hazing ritual, especially for visitors and newcomers. Commenters argue that its rise from obscure local bäsk to “unofficial liquor of Chicago” stems less from taste than from clever, self-deprecating marketing that leans into its reputation as uniquely vile. Many compare it to other bitters and amaros, concluding that while Malört is generally considered a low-quality, aggressively bitter example of the style, it has become a cultural touchstone and lifestyle brand nonetheless.
Paywalls and Access
- Multiple commenters note the NYT paywall and share archive links, some of which are also partially paywalled or flaky.
- There is mild criticism of NYT’s stance toward Web Archive–style access.
What Malört Is and Name/Title References
- Commenters clarify Malört is a Chicago bäsk (wormwood-based bitter) originally tied to Swedish traditions.
- “Malört” means “wormwood” in Swedish; historically also used as an herb against cloth moths.
- The “Midwest princess” headline is seen as an allusion to a popular album title; the connection is mainly that Malört is Midwestern and newly popular.
Taste, Quality, and Comparisons
- Many describe it as extremely bitter, harsh, and chemically “wrong” (earwax, turpentine, battery rust, swamp grass, “something you shouldn’t drink”).
- Others say it’s just a mediocre herbal bitter, not uniquely awful, comparable to low-end amaro/bäsk.
- Favorable comparisons: some liken it to a very bitter cousin of Jägermeister or other amaros; a minority genuinely enjoy it and sip it.
- Unfavorable comparisons: people who like Fernet, aquavit, and other amaros often still find Malört qualitatively worse.
- Several mention alternative, higher-quality bäsk/bitters (e.g., Bësk, Underberg, Gammel Dansk, Becherovka) as better expressions of the style.
Marketing, Meme Status, and Culture
- Strong consensus that its “worst drink ever” reputation is actively embraced in its marketing (“Do not enjoy. Responsibly.” etc.).
- Seen as a long-running Chicago in-joke: a prank on tourists/new arrivals, part of “Chicago Handshake” (Malört + Old Style).
- Debate whether it’s truly “the unofficial liquor of Chicago” or just a hipster/meme phenomenon; some argue that a century of pranks makes it a real cultural touchstone.
- Its rise is linked by some to broader US interest in amaros and bitter flavors, and to effective, self-deprecating branding.
Changes, Variants, and Distribution
- Several note that after acquisition by a new distiller, Malört became less bitter and more consistent; some lament the change.
- Others report batch-to-batch variation historically, with some bottles “especially bad.”
- Commenters observe wider US distribution and copycat/“good Malört” variants from small distilleries.
- Some feel new flavored or barrel-aged versions undermine its core identity as an intentionally unpleasant shot.
Personal Reactions and Bitter as Acquired Taste
- Thread shows a spectrum: from “liquid punishment” and gag fuel to earnest enjoyment as a bitter digestif.
- Multiple stories of office hazing, bachelor parties, bar games, and elaborate pranks built around surprising people with Malört.
- Several note that bitterness (coffee, amaros, dark chocolate) is often an acquired taste; some suggest Malört can “grow on you,” others insist it never does.