After 12 years of reviewing restaurants, I'm leaving the table
A long‑time New York Times restaurant critic’s decision to step down after 12 years prompts broader reflections on the toll that constant rich restaurant meals take on health and weight. Commenters trade anecdotes from professional kitchens and travel-heavy jobs, debate whether portion size or ingredients are the main problem, and cite studies linking frequent meals out to higher mortality. Others explore coping strategies — from only tasting small amounts to intense exercise or weight‑loss drugs — while noting that some culinary experiences and techniques remain hard to replicate at home.
Extreme food and gaming “quests”
- Commenters recall long-form projects (cross‑country burrito hunt, barbecue parody, visiting every themed chain location) as fascinating for their sheer excess and self‑imposed suffering.
- Similar appeal noted in grind-heavy gaming content (RuneScape “one‑chunk” accounts, hardcore challenge modes, massive Factorio mods): audiences enjoy watching others pour huge effort into marginal gains.
Tax write‑offs and “turning dining into a business”
- One thread explores starting a minimal food/movie/travel review “business” to deduct tickets, meals, and travel.
- Others push back:
- IRS hobby‑vs‑business rules and “ordinary and necessary” standards limit what’s deductible.
- Entertainment deductions have been narrowed; critics are an exception only when clearly working.
- Debate over whether pass‑through losses can offset other income; some say yes with limits, others say only against that business’s revenue.
- General consensus: pushing this too far risks audit.
Health effects of restaurant food
- Many emphasize that restaurant cooking leans heavily on fat, salt, and sugar; portion size in the US is repeatedly cited as a major driver of weight gain.
- Several share personal experiences of gaining weight while eating out frequently (travel, catered office meals) and losing weight when eating home‑cooked food.
- A cited study links frequent meals “away from home” to higher all‑cause mortality; others question its lack of control for cuisine type, restaurant quality, and confounders (e.g., travel, occupation).
- Some argue occasional restaurant meals are fine; the problem is routine fast food and oversized portions, not rare fine dining.
Home cooking vs restaurant capabilities
- One side claims certain flavors and techniques (high‑heat pizza, wok hei, deep‑fried fast‑food textures, fine‑dining patisserie) are effectively unreachable at home due to equipment, ingredients, and labor.
- Others counter with workarounds: pizza steels, outdoor ovens, blowtorches, air fryers, and careful technique can get “close enough” for most people.
- Separate subthread on recipes: many home recipes (including from newspapers) are “heavy.” People report routinely cutting sugar/fat and still getting good results, and debate weighing vs volumetric measuring.
Life and health as a restaurant critic
- Multiple comments highlight that four rich review meals a week is physically punishing and leads to weight gain.
- Suggestions include: tasting but not finishing dishes, sharing among a group, spreading the job across several critics, or using weight‑loss drugs.
- A reported experience with such medication describes severe side effects (nausea, dehydration, fainting), countering the idea that it’s an easy fix.
Criticism, popularity, and taste
- Discussion revisits harsh reviews of touristy, gimmicky restaurants.
- Some argue a critic should judge food quality regardless of an owner’s public niceness or charitable work.
- Others note that professional critics’ tastes often diverge from what mass audiences enjoy; high‑end restaurant culture is compared to the art world in its tendency toward pretension.
Insider perspectives from the restaurant world
- Restaurateurs describe the stress of realizing a major critic is in the dining room, including tactics to identify critics, showcase more dishes, and fill empty rooms.
- A positive review is said to make reservations scarce for weeks.
- Former industry workers who moved into tech say the experience gave them deep insight into consumer behavior and empathy for users.